Sunday, February 23, 2014

Waxing a Car

           It does not matter if you are an amateur cleaning up your car for a summer drive or a professional preparing a car for show the basics of waxing a car are the same.  The very first thins is the car must be clean of dirt and stains on its surface.  Any particle or particulate will scratch the paint during waxing if not removed.  Blemishes and stains will be sealed under the wax as well if not removed beforehand.  Both of these items will mar your end result.

            The choice of waxes is monumental.  The varieties in cost, wax base, physical media (liquid, solid) and dispersal method (spray, pour, wipe) are more about personal desire and level of effort (LoE) you wish to expend.   If you don't like lots of effort don't choose a paste or solid wax unless you are using an orbital applicator/buffer.  Sprays are nice and easy to apply but don't provide the shine level of the paste or solid wax types.  A happy medium can be liquid waxes; these offer the ease of application of the sprays but not the best possible result of the solids.  Sometimes it is helpful to ask others what they use and the result the received. 

            Following the directions is important.  Over applying a spray or liquid can cause extreme difficulties in removing excess wax than a proper application of a solid or paste.  In addition, letting any of the waxes dry too much results in hours of arm tiring, back wrenching, and sweating that would have been unnecessary if the directions had been followed.  Most directions indicate a cool and dry place out of the sun to apply and remove the wax.  Remember, the sun super heats the surface of your paint acting like an oven cutting dry times as little as seconds for some spray waxes and less than a minute for even solid waxes.  If you cannot find a shady area or the temperatures are hot, only work on a square foot or less at a time.  You will also be sweating a lot, so drink plenty of water.  Directions also state to use clean dry applicators, removers and buffing materials.  An old wax rag that has not been washed and inspected can hold dried grits of material in the fabric that act like sandpaper.  There is nothing I am aware of that is more frustrating than to look down at a bunch of swirls and scratches knowing you just caused them; because, you did not follow the instructions.

            Now that you have your wax, clean and proper application/buffing/polishing materials, a cool shaded location, and a bottle of water for yourself, it is time to get to work.  Waxing performed properly is not hard.  Do not confuse getting the car ready to wax with waxing.  I have spent as more than two days time preparing a car for a show.  The least time taken is about four hours on a brand spanking new car that was run through a touch-less car wash just to prep it for waxing.  You need to make sure every trim piece, body molding, seam, and crease are clean and dry; this includes the door entry areas, fuel filler cap/cover door, hood overlap areas and trunk lid channels as well.  Water or debris in these areas almost always will find a way to mar your waxing by watering down your wax (most are water soluble), or scratching your paint.  It is my personal recommendation to only work on no more than one half a panel or section at a time.  This keeps your quality and attention to the details of that section maximized.  Just like with washing the car start on the highest place, aka the roof.  Wear clothing that if it touches the paint will not damage or mar the surface.  If you have a belt buckle, any buttons, zippers and catches on your clothes will scratch the paint, so place tape over them.  Better yet, don't wear clothing that is not held on with either elastic or draw string.  Another consideration is your own sweat falling into your work; make sure you dry yourself off regularly with a dedicated sweat towel to prevent undoing your own work.  If you work methodically taking a small break after each completed panel the job will not take long and you can see your own reflection in the surface.  Once you have completed the entire car get a ruler and hold it lengthwise just off the surface.  You should be able to read the entire ruler in the reflection.  If you can see the entire ruler; then this is called a "foot deep" shine. 


            In the end it is about your personal expectation, and your personal LoE you wish to expend.  By following the instructions, using good materials, and setting a reasonable expectation with yourself, waxing your car can be a great way to spend an afternoon.

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